Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Lest We Forget

One of the reasons we chose to stay at the Gite Moulin was its close-ish proximity to Normandy.  About two hours from our little house (it took us over three) lay the graveyards of the thousands of British, Canadian, America (the list goes on) men who lost their lives after the D-Day invasion of June 6, 1944. 

I have always been incredibly emotional when it comes to anything World War II-related so it was no question I would find one of these cemeteries a tear-jerker.

Beny-Sur-Mer lies about a fifteen-minute drive from Juno beach.  In fact you can see the water & beach that over 65 years ago, thousands of soldiers stormed thus liberating France and winning the war.  One of those men was my great-uncle on my father’s side. My grandfather’s brother.



He is buried at Beny-Sur-Mer.

Perhaps my connection to WW2 lays in the fact a family member died fighting in it.  It’s not like I ever knew him.  To me, Douglas Groundwater is a faded black and white picture.  The older brother with his hand solemnly on my grandfather’s shoulder for a family portrait.  I’ve seen pictures of him smiling in his uniform, playing the bagpipes for the Nova Scotia Regiment before leaving for England.  His eyes shine.  I always find these sort of photos eerily fascinating.  These men who were so proud, even excited about where they were going, captured in one moment forever before they so gallantly sacrificed their lives.

But that’s all he was.  A name and a picture.

I didn’t write down the number of his grave from the Canadian government website because I stupidly assumed you could look it up when you get there.  You can’t.  So the Engineer and I split up, walking down the rows and rows of the nearly 2000 Canadian men (and I use that term loosely as most were 19).  Already I was an emotional wreck.  The tombstones are in order of death.  So most of the rows are from June 6, 1944. 

Families were given the opportunity to inscribe their loved-ones tombstones.  These last messages are what got me.

“No one loves like a mother” aged 19 – I burst out into tears.  This was someone’s little baby.

"I only have your memory dear husband to remember my whole life through.”   This soldier was only 21.  His young wife was probably only married to him for a few short months.  What happened to her?  Did she remarry?  Have a family?  Did she tell them about her first husband?  Could she always remember how he smelled?

“We will miss you.  Your wife and son” the soldier again being only 21.  Did his son ever meet him?

And then the worst:

“Known only to God” Someone’s son, brother, husband, lover, best friend lay under this French soil.  Unknown.  There were too many of these.

I got more and more frustrated, walking faster and faster desperate to find his grave first.  Tears streaming down my cheeks, runny nose.  I was a mess.  Then suddenly, my search was over as I let out a little ‘yelp’.  There it was in cold writing:

W.D. Groundwater 
Killed July 18, 1944
Love always from Mother, dad, May and Alistair



It hadn’t occurred to me to bring anything but I was so grateful to the Acme school in Alberta who had placed several Canadian flags on his grave.  This is the small town near our farm in Alberta.  Every year, they do a school trip to France.  Because my uncle was one of the only soldiers from our area (most, like my grandfather, stayed to farm for the war effort), the students learn about him and then visit his grave when they come to these cemeteries.  I think it’s a great program.  The further we are away from WW2 to more likely we are to forget.  For the modern teen, WW2 is just photos and a war.  But once you put a face, a family and their personal story in context, the war becomes real again.

I went to pick some daffodils, which I placed, on his grave.  Next time I come, I will make sure to bring some Alberta wheat.



I am not sure exactly how to describe the way I felt.  

 Firstly, seeing a grave made it so real.  This picture was a living, breathing man.  He was 35 when he volunteered for war.  An old man in comparison to other soldiers.  The younger men usually looked up to men my uncle’s age – I think for comfort as their own fathers were so far away.

The names on the tombstone made me cry.  All of those people:  Mother, Dad, May and Alistair (my grandfather) were also gone.  There was no one left on this earth that remembered what colour eyes Douglas had, or how his laugh sounded, or what he wanted out of life.

I know that he first volunteered and was sent to Edmonton.  Then he was transferred to the Nova Scotia regiment.  Maybe because he was a piper?  He wasn’t married, a confirmed bachelor.  Did he love a girl at home?  Was he planning on coming back to Canada and marrying her? 

He lived on the farm and worked with his father and my grandfather.  Therefore I was comforted by the landscape around the cemetery – fields of wheat, barley and canola.  He’s resting in a place that looked like home.

The cemetery was so peaceful.  Not a cloud in the sky, birds singing softly.  It was so hard to imagine what it must have been like in those first few months after D-Day.  The landscape destroyed, gunfire, bombs, and too much death to fathom.

D-Day was obviously successful.  But it took awhile.  The Allies were able to liberate many of the villages near the beaches.  Caen held off until July 18th.  The Germans were strong there and it took a great battle on the 18th to liberate it.  That was the day Douglas was hit when he was carrying a stretcher.  He served as a stretcher-bearer  - which makes me even sadder.  He was carrying another fallen man, maybe a friend, when he was struck. 

Again, so many questions:  did he suffer?  Did the other soldier die?  Was it a direct hit?  Who found him?  What was his last thought? 

My grandfather is long gone and I can’t ask him.  I only know that it was a terrible day when the farm got a call from the Acme post office.  Although the post office couldn’t tell my grandfather what it said, he knew what a telegram meant.  My dad says all he knows from his father was that that was a long drive. 

Douglas was seven years older than Alistair.  I wonder what their relationship was like.  I assume they were close.  Alistair probably looked up to him.  What about their mother?  How did she react? All these questions I now have and it’s too late to get an answer. 

I stood there thinking about those names on the tombstone, hoping they were all together again.  Somewhere around me. 

All of these faceless names.  They all have stories like mine.  Somewhere out there, they all have great-nieces, grandsons, widows or sisters that still think of them.  These thousands of boys who never had a chance.

We went to the Juno beach museum that was built by the Canadian veterans.  The Engineer and I tried to imagine this beach on June 6.  It’s impossible.

I think it is important to remember this war because it really meant something.  I know our generation is anti-war and we live in a time when there is what seems to be a senseless war in Iraq. 

My other grandfather was in the British Navy.  He couldn’t wait to sign up to go to war.  I once asked him if he had been scared.  His answer was no nonsense and trite:  Well Sarah, it was either fight or be German. 

WW2 had an actual cause.  There was an actual imminent threat.  When it says ‘he sacrificed his life for his friends’ the tomb isn’t lying.  If Hitler had gotten the UK, Canada would have been left open.  Our soldiers really did fight for us. 

Again, it’s hard to understand the mentality.  The bravo of these men.

Seeing Douglas’s grave made me proud to be linked to him.  There have only even been two Groundwater’s in France, and one of us gets to go home. 

Beny-Sur-Mer is humbling.  It’s emotional even without a family connection.  I’m happy it’s so well tended and loved.  There were many people visiting, and they weren’t even Canadian.  Which makes me think we will truly never forget.






























Thursday, April 29, 2010

The Wedding Belles

I now have a sweet little television show on Shaw Television (In Canada) called 'Wedding Belles'

It's about all things wedding and I work with my dear friend and partner, Aubrey Arnason.

I can't embed the link but you can view Wedding Belles here - and in any country!

Enjoy!

Beauty and the Beast


I am living the life of the Disney classic.

Example:

“Little town, it’s a quiet village”
Check

“Everyday, like the one before”
Check

“Little town, full of little people”
Well, I feel we are all the same size

“Waking up to say . . . Bonjour, Bonjour, Bonjour, Bonjour, Bonjour”
Check.  I love it!  Everyone greets me on the little village roads. Bonjour, Bonsoir. Why aren’t we like that in Vancouver or New York?  You even say hello to everyone when you enter a restaurant!  Just the other morning a man literally opened his robin-egg blue shutters, looked down and waved ‘Bonjour’!  I melted.

“There goes the baker with his tray like always, the same old bread and rolls to sell”

Well, no.  I have to go to the boulangerie.  But she does have the same things every morning:  croissants, croissants buerre, pain au chocolate, almond croissants, raisin croissants, baguettes, country baguettes (no idea the difference).  However, each morning she has one new offering:  vienniesse bread (will try tomorrow), anise bread, brioche

“Every morning just the same, since the morning that we came.  To this poor provincial town”
Check.  And I like it.

Seriously, that opening scene is like every French town we have been in. 















































So let me get this straight:

French people don’t get paid very much money, however, they believe life is for living.  Lunches are two hours, stores close for five hours during the day, you are encouraged to drink wine at lunch, croissants are a normal breakfast, health care is amazing, maternity is two years including free check-ins who do your laundry, medicine is free, holidays are 9 weeks plus an extra week if you are getting married, you are supposed to nap, dinner is usually something with goose fat, hair salons outnumber gyms, crème brulee is a national dessert, crepes are two Euros, the countryside is full of castles and the sun shines all the time.

Why why why are we not moving here? 


Ding Dong Dordogne

I was drawn to this region for no more a reason than, you guessed it, a nice place to stay.

In my search of where to go in France, I discovered Gites, or farmhouses/barns/old houses turned into self-catering holiday homes.  It’s a program run by the French government to sustain the countryside and prevent it from falling to ruin.  They are totally affordable, and so far, all amazing.

Anyways, Dordogne is as popular as Provence.  But somehow I had never heard of it before.

Now, just an aside about Provence.  We loved Barjac and our stay at the lovely bed and breakfast.  However, we are not Provence junkies.  You hear about it again and again.  It is lovely. It’s also super crowded and overdone.  Therefore, I was afraid this region would be as well.

So far, so good.

We are located at the Gite-le-Duc in what is basically a cute gingerbread house near a village called Martel.  Martel is mentioned in the Rough Guide but not as somewhere you need to see.  I think, however, it might just be the sweetest, cutest village ever.









It’s part medieval, part 17th century – so it’s a nice break from everything being so medieval.  And it has good food.  So far I have eaten foie gras, potato gratin, some sort of asparagus that was injected with crack goodness, cream potatoes (not to be confused with potato gratin), cream veggies, and pork stuffed with sage and cheese.  DROOL.




Our home for three days is so adorable – like I said, it’s a gingerbread house.  My friends need to come here so that we can rent all the gites that are on this property.  Stone houses, a pool, dripping with wisteria and a boulangerie down the road.  Parfaitt n’es pas?









The countryside is barfably cute.  Stone cottages, chateaux along the river, green pastures, baby goats/cows/sheep/horses.  Today I kept screaming as we passed little baby farm animals with their mummies. Plus we go to sleep to the chorus of frogs and nightingales – well we would if the Engineer would let me open the windows. 



Every town keeps getting prettier and prettier. All within a half an hour!

















Tuesday, April 27, 2010

The Magic Day

Apparently when it comes to planning trips I have a bit of a problem with dates.  I was so proud of my spreadsheet that listed where we were each night, if we had paid, if there was a kitchen, etc.  It was awesome.  Until we realized I had forgotten some dates, or added an extra day.

This happened the night before we were supposed to be heading to the Dordogne region.

Luckily I checked out the spreadsheet and realized that I had missed a day.  We were checking out on the 24th, and then checking in somewhere else on the 25th.  Whoops.

But it’s mistakes like this that lead to the best discoveries.  I consulted my Rough Guide (which after this trip I am throwing out – it is made for people who backpack, not people like me who want to know where to shop) and it said that one of the top things to see in the whole region of Languedoc-Rousillon was to go to Cordes-Sur-Ciel.  Lucky for me I didn’t have Rick Steves because he tells you to go right past it.

Right, that is where we were going to go.  But how to find a place to stay at last minute?

Tripadvisor gave me an idea for a lovely Bed & Breakfast situated below the town – perfect.  And he got back to me right away with the news they had one vacancy!  Hooray!  Fate was playing her fair hand.

So we packed up and left – traveling through what has become some of our favourite countryside in France.  Through Castres, hitting the last of the market and eating paella overlooking the river.  Then to Lautrec – of Toulouse-Lautrec family fame, with it’s winding medieval streets and windmill.  Albi, for the Toulouse-Lautrec museum and some much needed shopping (not that I bought anything with the Engineer hovering about me, checking prices, but I needed to get the ‘urge’ out). 

Finally, we made our way on more winding roads, past fields of green and yellow, cows and foie gras farms, and suddenly, in the distance, we could see Cordes.  And just like its name suggests, it really is in the sky.  Surrounded by rolling fields, it sits on a hill, shining and beckoning us towards it.






Love at first sight.

We were staying at The Aurifat, a tumble-mess of a house dating from the 12th century.  It sits below the town, with a protected view of green fields.  It’s got a lovely garden, a pool and this, and I hate this word, energy about it.  Like the moment you get there you feel as if you have just come home. Plus it comes with its very own 9-month old puppy, Paprika.









The Engineer and I sat for a moment, enjoying the peace and serenity.  We really just checked our emails. 

For dinner, we made our way uphill to the town.  The sun was just starting it’s decent to slumber, casting Cordes in a golden light so the town looked as if it was dripping in honey.  Technically, this town is touristy.  Which it is.  But compared to Carcassonne or Les Baux, it is not tacky or overdone.  Just quietly touristy.  With several foie gras and wine shops (Gaillic wine is AMAZING!  Especially the rose which I am drinking now.  Hence why this is probably sounding extra goobery). 






We found a spot for dinner, under some sort of medieval canopy.  Thanks to two lovely French ladies next to us, we were able to decipher most of the menu.



The Engineer chose another tres disgusting appetizer:  goose gizzard salad.  OH GOD.  Why?  Why does he do this?  I may be the one who appreciates food, but I draw the line at meat parts that are gross.  Whereas he loves all gross meat parts.  Must be because he is ‘chinesey’. 

I had jambon. I thought is was pate because of the pays.  No.  Just ham and salad.

Then our entrees.  The word ‘aligot’ appeared on the menu and not in my dictionary.  Our new French friend told us it was cheese and potato.  We thought it was in a sausage.  She said to try it because it was delicious.  Lucky for me, the person two tables over had it just as our waiter was taking my order.  Therefore, he misunderstood me pointing to it as ‘give me that with duck confit’ as opposed to ‘is that aligot?’.  Happy ‘lost in translation’ because ten minutes later I was the proud eater of a Duck Confit and Arigot OR the plate of fat.


Recipe for Aligot here

If this were not a blog but a video, you would now see me stand up and give the slow clap.  This meal deserves a standing ovation.






So apparently arigot is a fancy French word for potatoes mashed to runny goodness with cream and cheese.  And lots of it.  So that when you take a bite, a part of you cries inside.  Then duck confit.  What can I say about this dish?  Meat cooked for a long time in fat.  It’s the equivalent of heaven for your bouche. 

In that moment, I think I was happier than when the Engineer proposed.  Okay, slight exaggeration but only slight.

The sun set, melting the gold away and turning Cordes-Sur-Ciel into a glimmering nighttime secret.  We were some of the only people.  Lamps lit our way, but we mostly had to rely on the moonlight.  As we made our way back to Aurifat, the Engineer and I both relished in the perfect spring air.  Well, I did.  The Engineer simply said ‘yes, it’s really nice’.  And for him, that level of enthusiasm should prove something.



The air was warm.  It was perfumed with wisteria, wallflowers, and, my favourite, lilac.  So much so that every few steps I stopped, took a big whiff, and fell even more in love.

We passed a house full of French and British women, of a certain age, dressed well, eating and drinking wine.  I couldn’t help but think of my own friends at home who would so love this and love having a dinner party here.  The Engineer pointed out that we do that in Vancouver.  I pointed out that it is much funner in France.  So ladies, who read this, promise me when we get to a certain age we will somehow buy houses in France and drink wine forever?

Back to my story:  We knew the night couldn’t be over, so we grabbed a blanket, two glasses and our Blanquette. Making our way to some chairs under a tree, under the moon and stars, we sat drinking until late at night.  We saw shooting stars, talked about our future, and both mentioned how wonderful it must be to live in a place like this.  BARF.



After our gin rummy tournament (yes, we are nerds), I lay in bed and thought of our hosts, Ian and Penelope who happened upon this spot 11 years ago and decided to buy it.  I would love to do that.  Just take over a bed and breakfast in the south of France, how lucky they were to find it.

During breakfast, which consisted of warm croissants, vanilla yogurt, homemade blackberry jam and honey from the beekeeper down the road, we discovered Aurifat was for sale!   AAAAAAAAAAAAH!  Ian and Penelope were finally taking full retirement. 






So now I am on the hunt for someone to buy this piece of heaven so that I can come again and again. And, if they every need someone to run it for a few summer months I know a certain blogger, and her bridesmaid T, will happily do that for them!

I asked my dad for 730 000 Euros but he said no L